Memorable Trip to Yumthang Valley: The valley of flowers and Zero Point Part- II

In the last post, you read about the unforgettable night, we spent in the scenic and picturesque Lachung village with torrential rains accompanying us and without electricity entire night. As our hotel was near to Lachung river, the gushing sound of the river was complementing the thunderous sound of rains, thus making our night at Lachung a special one. Though, we were inside a hotel room, we were sleeping literally in the lap of nature. Finally the long winter night gave way to a pleasant sunny morning and we were greeted by morning sunshine having energizing effect on us. Now was the time to get ready for our adventurous day in Yumthang valley and zero point. As i mentioned that it was raining whole night, the electricity had still not turned up and we were not courageous enough to take a bath in near-zero temperature without geyser's help :-).

Getting freshened ourselves, we came out from our rooms, only to find a magnificent view of mountain peaks glowing in the sunshine. That was really refreshing for us and i was thinking, what effect it may have on local fellows, who see it daily. Mornings in Mountains are a visual treat, especially when you are at altitude of around 10000 ft from sea level. We had completely forgotten by seeing the crystal clear sky of that glorious morning that it was heavy downpour since last evening.

Morning View from Lachung

By 7:00 AM, we started our journey for Yumthang valley, hoping to see the wide varieties of primula and rhododendrons. However, the journey seemed to be inviting us along the way to catch hold of some breath-taking and mind blowing scenery along the road and we could not resist the temptation to capture those eye candies in our camera frames. The experience of being there amid milky peaks, fast flowing river and lush greenery was so overwhelming and out-worldly that it can't be described exactly through words and images. I can say that for a person living in cacophony of a bustling city, spending few days in such far-away places in nature's lap will have some medicinal value. These are the places, where the most powerful person on the planet will feel himself a mere mortal in front of nature. 

We halted at a place before Yumthang valley to feast on the beauty of natural landscapes and there were plenty. We had tea at a small shop and luckily gum boots used for walking on snow were available in the tea shop itself and we took it on rent of Rs. 50/- per pair. The weather of valley was at it's best that day, thus offering magnificent  and scenic views along the way. During entire journey of North Sikkim, we found many small but beautifully designed small bridges on Lachung and Lachen rivers, which were accentuating the natural beauty of the place.

Snow caped mountains and a lively river : What else one would require to get entranced

Serpentine Roads leading to Yumthang Valley

                                                 Primula at Yumthang Valley                        Image Courtesy : flickr.com

By 9:00 AM, we had reached Yumthang valley, however, we could not see the wide range of flowers specially Rhododendrons, for which it is famous for. Though, we could see four to five varieties of Rhododendrons along the road near Yumthang. 

The valley surrounded by Himalayan Mountains is situated at the altitude of approx. 11000 feet and around 150 km away from Gangtok. It is popularly known as Valley of flowers, as the region blooms with over 24 varieties of rhododendrons, primula, poppies and other floral species during spring season.

We proceeded to Zero point from there by 9:30 AM and planned to spend more time discovering flowers in Yumthang while returning from zero point, as the weather gets worsened at high altitudes after noon. Zero Point, also known as Yumesamdong, is a beautiful place located at the height of around 15800 feet near Indo-china international border. The place remains covered in snow whole year, however it has been relatively less trodden and unexplored territory. After crossing Yumthang valley, our vehicle started moving on an upward road with numerous hairpin bends, as we had to go up by around 5000 feet with in an hour. Snow caped mountain peaks and trees were visible now. 

Road to The Ice Kingdom

We had seen those peaks and snow on the way to Gurudongmar lake, but they were maintaining a safe distance from us. However, at zero point, our proximity with the snow had increased exponentially. As we were moving forward, everything from roads and trees to mountain ranges were looking whiter and brighter. Our poor eyes had really tough time adjusting to the reflection of sun rays in the snow. But, that didn't us stop us to have our share of enjoyment sliding and gliding in the snow. In fact, we like many other enthusiastic tourists were fascinated by the scenery unfolded before our eyes and started playing in the snow with a child's enthusiasm. The little bit of apprehension and reluctance was soon replaced by the jest and adventure of youth, once we started walking in the snow. Here are some glimpses of wonderful zero point for you to visualize the lifelong experience, one can have by unraveling such gem of a place.

Black patches on everything white

Only the object in motion will have it's way

Our fun moment in the snow

After spending fun-filled time at zero point, we were feeling tired physically and weather was also changing it's colours, so we decided to return. It was 12 PM when we reached near Yumthang, while returning and we had still some time to have a look on the flowers of North Sikkim. There were many trees of Rhododendron on both sides of the road and this tree had a magnificent background.

Rhododendron tree with mountains in the backdrop

After seeing many trees of red rhododendrons, we saw some pink ones too.

Rhododendron in full blossom

In a three day's trip from Gangtok, we had managed to explore Lachen, Lachung, Gurudongmar Lake, Yumthang valley and Zero point. We started our return journey from Yumthang at 2:00 PM and by 9:00 PM, we reached Gangtok. Till date, it is the most fulfilling and memorable voyage of my life. I am sure that in the days to come, i will be able to witness more vibrant colours and hues of  natural beauty.

Here is some useful information for fellow travelers, who would like to explore North Sikkim.

How To Reach Yumthang Valley and Zero Point

By Air – The nearest airport is Bagdogra Airport. Take taxi to Gangtok nearly 120 kilometers via national highway 31 A. Chopper service is also available for Gangtok from Bagdogra. From Gangtok, one has to hire a taxi to Lachung to visit the valley of flowers and zero point. Gangtok to Lachung is 5 - 6 hours journey. For travelling to Lachung and some other regions of North Sikkim, one needs to obtain Inner Line Permit.

By Rail – The nearest major railway Station is New Jalpaiguri Railway Station (NJP), around 120 km away from Gangtok. From New Jalpaiguri Railway Station one has to hire a taxi to Gangtok. Shared taxis are also available at NJP or Siliguri Bus Stand.

By Road – Roads till Gangtok is national highway 31 A. From Gangtok, vehicle with army permit has to be booked for visiting Lachung. Yumthang valley is 25 km away from Lachung and zero point is another 25 km from the valley.

Itinerary for those, planning to visit Gurudongmar Lake and Yumthang Valley :

Day 1 - Reach Gangtok. Night stay at Gangtok.

Day 2 - Travel Gangtok to Lachen; overnight stay at Lachen

Day 3 - Lachen to Gurudongmar and Chopta Valley and Back. Continue travel to Lachung; overnight stay at Lachung

Day 4 - Visit to Yumthang valley and Zero Point. Back to Gangtok

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Trip to Yumthang Valley : The Valley of Flowers and Zero Point

After feasting on the magnificent and breathtaking landscape of Gurudongmar Lake for hours, we had returned to Lachen to collect our luggage from the hotel and the same day, we had started for Lachung for our next part of itinerary of North Sikkim covering Yumthang Valley and Katao. 

As i mentioned in the last post that while going to Lachung, it had started raining heavily, but this time, we were more than happy to welcome the rains, though it might have been difficult for our driver to drive on serpentine roads with numerous hairpin bends, that too in torrential rains. Perhaps, being able to behold the pristine lake and the landscape filled with snow-clad mountain peeks had it's intoxicating effect, that's why, while returning from the lake, when we started singing with gay abandon, we were not aware that the tourists coming from opposite side travelling to Lachen were throwing a curious glance on us and must have thought, what had happened to us. If only they could know, what was in store for them on next day!

The distance of around 120 km from Gurudongmar Lake to Lachung  via Chungthang was covered in around 5 hours. Obviously, we stopped occasionally in the way  to capture some natural view in our camera.

Amitabh Bachchan Waterfall (Naga fall)

On the way to Lachung from chungthang, we like many other travellers stopped to see this mighty waterfall fed by numerous streams. The fall is named after Mr. Amitabh Bachchan, the legendary actor owing to it's height. Given the remoteness of the place, Mr. Bachchan might not be aware that a waterfall on his name exists in this world. However, it gave us some laughter moments, as we proceeded. At some distance from this waterfall, we saw a small waterfall and immediately a new name was coined for it. No prize for guessing friends! The name given to the fall was Jaya Bhaduri fall :-). We had another such funny moment, when we saw one more waterfall, taller than the previous one and it was named on evergreen actress Rekha.

By 6:00 PM, we had reached Lachung, a small town situated at elevation of around 9600 ft and started looking for hotel for our night stay. As it was still raining heavily, we didn't spend much time on exploring our options. In stead, we settled in the first hotel, we entered. It was an average accomodation, good enough for one night halt, but i must loud the hospitability of young folks running the hotel. 

It was raining since noon and the electricity had given up, so we were literally heading towards a biting cold and dark night. Some of us were feeling the urge to have tea and there was a small hut-cum-tea stall near our hotel, we went there braving rains and darkness. The shop was manned by two girls and there were some locals as well as some tourists sitting inside. The tiny shop had really the wide range of drinks available, from tea and coffee to bear and whisky. I was not surprised, as i believe, in Sikkim, consumption of liquor is more than that of tea. We had discussions with the girls managing the shop, while having our tea and we came to know the level of hardships faced by them in their daily lives. Apart from the harsh climatic conditions, poor accessibility is a big problem faced by the villagers. One astonishing fact was that they had to travel to Mangan, the district headquarter of North Sikkim, 60 km away from Lachung for purchasing grocery items.

We had returned to our hotel rooms and were discussing our travel plan for tomorrow in a candle light. After having delicious dinner cooked by young and jovial fellows, we had gone to bed for the night. 

The incessant downpour had enhanced the coziness of the bed and suddenly a beautiful melody of Hemant Kumar came to my mind, "Ye Raat Ye Chandni Fir Kahan, Sun Ja Dil Ki Daastaan". Romanticism of the song had increased manifold in the tranquility of that memorable night. Crooning the song, I had gone to sleep, waiting a new dawn. The night spent at Lachung was really a special one for all of us.

Lachung Factfile

Lachung is a small village rather hamlet of North Sikkim, 125 km away from Gangtok. The village is situated at the confluence of two rivers Lachen chu and Lachung chu, both tributaries of River Teesta. Lachung is a Tibetan word, which means Small Pass. The Lepchas and Bhutias are the main inhabitants of this place. Lachung has been described by many as the most picturesque  village of Sikkim and rightly so. During the winter, the whole village gets covered in snow.

The best time to visit Lachung is from October to May.

In the next post, i will take you to the valley of flowers and then will have some fun in snow at zero point. Till then adios!

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A trip to Sacred Gurudongmar Lake : Eastern Himalaya's Paradise

After taking you along on odysseys to various places of Sikkim, now is the time to take you on one of the best voyages of my life, North Sikkim, where travelling is as wonderful and memorable as the destination is. Certainly the best part of Sikkim and one of the best in India. It seems that the Mother Nature has bestowed undivided attention and care in decorating this part of Sikkim with all the jewels, she has, and has made the place her own abode, like a mother, who has soft corner for one of her children. North Sikkim is the place, where you will feel yourself one with the nature and will find least human intervention. I genuinely feel that the upper part of hilly state will give any other contenders of "paradise on Earth" title, a run of their money. Having said that, it is also a truth that the patchy and treacherous roads leading to North Sikkim will give you an adrenaline rush and keep you on the edge due to the area being heavily prone to frequent landslides and earthquakes. North Sikkim is for avid travelers and adventure seekers, who are young at heart. And believe me, you will be amply rewarded with the fulfilling and lifelong experience, if you decide to travel to this part of Sikkim overcoming these small barriers. If North Sikkim happens to be the crown of Sikkim, then Gurudongmar Lake must be the brightest pearl of that crown. 

During my three year's stay in Gangtok, visiting Gurudongmar Lake was on top of my wishlist since the very beginning, but ironically, my wish came true only during the fag end of third year of my stay. The delay in fulfilling my wish may be attributed to reluctance of my colleagues and fellow travelers due to rough terrain and harsh climatic condition of the place. Whenever, i used to raise the issue, they used to say, it's very difficult to visit the lake, as it remains cut off from rest of Sikkim most of the year due to heavy snowfall and landslides. A major Earthquake at North Sikkim in September 2011 also discouraged us to venture into that dreaded path. However, as the saying goes, "Better Late than Never", I along with four travelers managed to explore most of North Sikkim and it is my best travel experience till date. I am yet to see a place, which has elicited more wows and adjectives like beautiful, superb, wonderful, mesmerizing, magnificent etc. from me than that elicited by North Sikkim. Now Let us come to my travel memoir, otherwise, the adjectives will fall short in describing the beauty of the place.

On a sunny day of April 2014, we 5 people started for Gurudongmar and Yumthang Valley on a 03 day's trip taking our reliable and expert driver Mr. Tularam with us after obtaining all necessary permits required in order to travel to North Sikkim. Tourists need to obtain tour permits from Department of Tourism office, situated at M G Road, Gangtok. Foreign Tourists are not permitted to travel upto Gurudongmar Lake. 

We started our journey by 8:00 AM and reached Mangan, the district headquarter of North Sikkim (68 km from Gangtok) by 10:30 AM. As we left Mangan, the natural beauty of North Sikkim started unfolding before our eyes. The Purity of air had kindled the child inside us and that was the reason, whenever we saw any waterfall, we started screaming with joy.... Oh waterfall! What a fall! We kept screaming with unbridled joy, as this part of Sikkim had plenty of waterfalls and hot springs. We had really lost count of the waterfalls in our journey to Lachen and Gurudongmar.

Thundering Waterfall on the way to Chungthang

Waterfall in closeup

After getting photographed in various poses with mighty waterfall in the backdrop, we proceeded further only to find a feisty river called Teesta making it's way in the mountains and dense forests.

Teesta River flowing with full force

By 12:00 PM, we had reached Chungthang, a town of North Sikkim, which is situated at the confluence of two rivers - Lachen chu and Lachung chu (Chu means river), both tributaries of Teesta river. Chungthang is a small town from where the road bifurcates into two, with one road leading to Lachen and other to Lachung. 

Chungthang has fair share in myths and legends surrounding Sikkim. As one legend goes, Guru Padmasambhav, Buddhist Guru, visited the town before going to Tibet and left his footprint on a rock where he once rested. Around the rock some paddy is grown, which is supposed to be a miracle as paddy does not grow in these conditions. We also saw a Gurudwara in Chungthang, which suggests that there are also some legends related to Guru Nanak Dev.

We had stopped at a road-side eatery at Chungthang to have lunch, but the food was not readily available. We were told that today tourist inflow was higher and there were very few hotels at Chungthang, so it will take some time for food to be cooked afresh. After having sumptuous lunch at Chungthang, we left for Lachen, 25 km from Chungthang. By 2:30, we had reached Lachen village, where we had decided to stay for the night and start for Gurudongmar Lake next day. Lachen is also a very beautiful village and in winters, village becomes inhabitable for locals and a picturesque spot for tourists due to heavy rainfall. Lachen has all budget hotels starting from Rs. 800/- per room. After settling in a hotel, which was more like a home stay, we had enough time left for exploring the village and we didn't waste any time. 

Hotel at Lachen

As the evening had set in, dense fog had started engulfing the entire village and before that could happen, we were able to catch some glimpses of the village and it's surroundings.

View of Lachen Village

Our cameras were searching for snow-clad peaks, as we were at the height of 8500 feet, and soon we were greeted with the spectacular sight, which increased our excitement for tomorrow.

Snow-clad Peak as seen from Lachen

As the temperature was falling rapidly with the darkness, we were forced to rush towards our hotel rooms. After having dinner at 8:00 PM, we retired to bed by 9:00 PM, as we had to leave for Gurudongmar Lake by 4:00 AM in the morning. Before we could sleep, rain had started pouring in and our hope to see the pristine lake in it's glorious best was diminishing. Praying for good weather for tomorrow, we had gone to bed, leaving everything at God's will.

In the next post, i will share my travel memoir on Gurudongmar Lake. whether, Weather God smiled on us or remained in sulking mood in the form of torrential rains, you will come to know in next post.


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Itinerary for 8 days tour to Mystic Sikkim

The hill state of Sikkim has a wide variety to offer, from the capital town of Gangtok with its own culture and lifestyle to the forbidding mountain scapes that have remained unchanged through centuries.

Though i personally feel that every day in Sikkim has different colour and every place has it's unique natural beauty and it's not possible to cover every nook and corner of the state even in years, however one can visit the most scenic places of Sikkim to get an idea , how panoramic and picturesque, the entire state is. 

For those planning a trip to Sikkim, i am posting an itinerary, which may help making their trip an unforgettable one. A 7 nights and 8 days tour should be sufficient to capture Sikkim at its scenic best.

Itinerary

Amidst the grandeur of the mountain peaks, lush valleys, fast flowing rivers and terraced hills, Sikkim offers a spectacular and unique experience. Within a matter of hours one can move from the sub-tropical heat of the lower valleys to the cold of the rugged mountain slopes that reach upto the areas of perpetual snow.

Day 1: New Jalpaiguri- Gangtok- 124 kms (4-5 hrs) 

Arrive in New Jalpaiguri by train or fly into Bagdogra. Hire a Taxi for approx. four and half hour's journey to Gangtok. Plenty of hotels and lodges, you will get in and around Gangtok.

Day 2: Gangtok Local Sightseeing

An early morning trip to Tashi view point (offering fabulous views of Kanchenjunga) followed by a full day sightseeing of Gangtok. Other tourist attractions in Gangtok are Rumtek Monastry; one of the largest and sacred Buddhist Monastry in Sikkim, Banjakhari Waterfalls, Ganesh Tok, Hanuman Tok and Saramsa Garden. 

Kanchanjenga Amusement Park may also be an option for those intending to spend leisure time with their kids.

Rumtek Monastry

Banjakhri Waterfall

Day 3 : Gangtok- Chungthang- Lachung 116 kms (5-6 hrs)

Local Sightseeing of Gangtok is just like a starter before the main course. The adventure begins, when one heads for North Sikkim. You may start your journey of Lachung Valley early morning after having breakfast and take luncht at Chungthang which is at the confluence of Lachen and Lachung valleys. Halt at Lachung for the night. Lachung itself is a very scenic place located at the altitude of around 10000 ft.

Permit is required to be obtained from Tourism Department in order to visit Gurudongmar Lake and Yumthang valley  in North and Nathula/ Tsomgo Lake in East Sikkim due to border area reason. Before proceeding for these places, permits need to be obtained at-least a day before.

Day 4: Lachung- Yumthang Valley-Zero Point-Lachen- 148 kms (8-9 hrs)

Yumthang valley, popularly known as the Valley of Flowers is aroung 35 km. from Lachung. You will see many varieties of Rhododendron flower with the snow bound mountains in the backdrop along the way. If you have had enough of seeing flowers and clicking too many photographs, you may go upto Zero Point, 16 km. from Yumthang, to enjoy with snow.  Start return journey to Lachung by noon and take lunch at Lachung. Then you may proceed to Lachen, which is 48 km. away. Night halt at Lachen. 

Lachen is a small tribal village ruled by the Dzumsa. If you reach Lachen before evening, you may like to see Lachen Monastry, situated at the top of the village and offers panoramic view of the valley.

Yumthang Valley - Valley of Flowers

Day 5: Lachen- Gurudongmar Lake- Lachen-Gangtok- 240 kms (10-11 hrs)

A visit to Gurudongmar Lake is a must while in Sikkim. Gurudongmar is one of the highest situated lakes (17100 ft.) in North Sikkim. Remember the altitude here may cause breathing problem. Move slowly towards the pristine lake and watch it motionlessly. An early morning start will help you to return Gangtok by 8 :00 or 9:00 pm in night. Night stay in guest house in Gangtok.

Gurudongmar Lake

Please note that the foreigners are not allowed to travel to Gurudongmar Lake.

Day 6: Gangtok- Nathula Pass- Gangtok  110 Kms ( 7-8 hrs)

It will take whole day to enjoy the beauty of Tsomgo Lake (popularly known as Chhangu Lake), Nathu-la pass and Baba Mandir and to return back to Gangtok. Normally tourists coming to Gangtok on a short trip, go to Nathu-la  pass. 

Day 7: Gangtok- Yuksom- Pemayangtse- 160 kms ( 5-6 hrs)

Reach Yuksom, the first capital of Sikkim by taxi via Samdruptse; the holy spot where the tallest statue of Guru Rinpoche has been built. 

Yuksom is a scenic spot set amidst the backdrop of the Himalayas. It is a historical place, for in 1641 Buddhism was introduced here. Visit the Khecheopalri Lake after lunch at Yuksom. Afterwards, reach Pemayangtse (32 km away from Yuksom) to see Rabdantse ruins - the second capital of Sikkim & Pemayangtse Monastery. Night stay in a guest house.

Rabdentse Ruins, site of 2nd capital of Sikkim

Day 8: Pemayangtse- New Jalpaiguri

Drive back to New Jalpaiguri/ Bagdogra to fly back home.


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